DAY FOUR: MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2022

“On behalf of Fashion Group International, I am delighted to announce FGI COMMUNIQUÉ will return for this upcoming season! Since 1936, FGI has been an essential resource for industry information at the zeitgeist of innovation.” — Maryanne Grisz, President & CEO, Fashion Group International

SOFT FOCUS

Delicate chiffons in gentle tints suggest an early spring mood. Sandy Liang was inspired by period-piece films like Picnic at Hanging Rock, the poetically mysterious story of missing Victorian schoolgirls, and Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, which is a touchpoint for the designer. Those costume drama influences were felt in sweet flounces and built-in bra details, all made modern with insouciant layering. Prabal Gurung, Humanitarian honoree at the upcoming 2022 FGI Night of Stars, draped chiffon for an ethereal goddess top, brought down to earth when styled atop an olive-drab miniskirt. Canadian designer Alex S. Yu showed at the Global Fashion Collective III. Yu layered a diaphanous frock over a stretchy tee and bike shorts, encapsulating the new mix of casualness and romance.

CITYSCAPE

Designer Catherine Holstein of Khaite understands the New York “cool girl” vibe, offering clothes that are both polished and laidback. This time she captured that elegant urban energy with tailored minimalism lightened by subtle whimsy. A snug black knit was shown tucked into a surprisingly wearable bubble skirt in lustrous gray; the same gray satin was cut into an oversized blazer that topped a sheer black turtleneck and fringed skirt. Sandy Liang showed her tailored side with minimalist bras that worked back to matching slim skirts or trousers, accented with utilitarian touches like cargo pockets and half-aprons. A pantsuit with a cropped jacket, one of several that emerged on runways this week, is sure to be a must-have come next spring.

STRIPE IT

Bright bold stripes are key for next Spring. Studio 189, co-founded by actress Rosario Dawson and luxury-marketing executive, Abrima Erwiah, is a social enterprise brand that is made in, and inspired by, Africa. This season, they titled their collection “Mélange”, a reference to the mix of techniques and materials used, including vivid stripes that were collaged into separates and dresses. Tommy Hilfiger’s “See Now, Buy Now” Fall 2022 collection was shown to an enthusiastic audience, who turned out despite the rain. His signature brightly striped polo knits gained newness from fresh proportions, whether body-skimming or oversized. Victor Barragán for Barragán spoofed traditional American corporate attire with tailored pieces in loud mismatched stripes. Marrisa Wilson took to twitter to announce that her S23 collection is “a celebration of my Guyanese heritage.” That sentiment was expressed with upbeat woven stripes cut into easy silhouettes.

DENIM REVISITED

As true denim-heads know, the beloved fabric can be endlessly reinvented with various washes, overdyes, scrubs, coatings and blastings. This season the most appealing denims exploit those artisanal treatments. Prabal Gurung emphasized the corset-influenced structure of his club-ready pieces with a faded treatment that darkened at the seams and edges. Raúl Lopez of Luar was inspired by childhood memories of his Dominican family in Brooklyn in the ’80s and ’90s. His artfully distressed coats and jeans have an heirloom quality. Ulla Johnson worked with a collective in LA who use antique chain stitch machinery, giving her embroidered jeans ensemble a unique look.

MIRROR FINISH

Shiny silver is the metal of choice for now and for next spring. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra cut featherweight silver into fluid pleats and gathers, while Eckhaus Latta offered a crisp metallic tee. Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi showed their Resort 23 Fendi collection in New York to mark the 25th anniversary of their iconic Baguette bag. A silvery chain-mail skirt topped with an intarsia tee captured their high-low approach. Aaron Potts of APOTTS used a foil-like material with a slightly crinkly texture for his gleaming parka and matching boxer shorts.

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DAY SIX FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    NYFW ends with a powerful explosion of glamour & glitz, topping off a week filled with garden party florals, sweet slip dresses, pure whites, lovely lace and a cocktail of juicy oranges.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Theophilio is a Brooklyn born collection designed by Edvin Thompson. The brand celebrates the struggle and overcoming of disadvantages, an inspiring modus operandi.

DAY FIVE FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Flounces get big and bouncy, black-and-white evolves, all bodies are celebrated, New York City’s melting pot is reflected in designers’ far-flung inspirations and yellow is the color of the moment.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Maisie Schloss, the founder and designer of Maisie Wilen, knows what she wants. Without hesitation, she designs bold, bright and beautiful pieces that enhance the body and flatter the soul.

DAY FOUR FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Sheer chiffons and gentle colors herald spring romance, cool city girls get tailored, vivid stripes bring joy, denim shows its artisanal side and mirror-finish silver becomes the metal of choice.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    I don’t know how to fully describe the phenomenon of LoveShackFancy. People are passionate about this brand.

DAY THREE FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Fine art informs prints, workwear goes soft, lingerie gets a Goth twist, tie-dye glows up and the color purple reigns supreme.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Marrisa Wilson designs a joyful collection! Looking at it generates happiness. That’s not easy to accomplish these days.

DAY TWO FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Giant flowers, pretty grunge, faded jeans, highlighter greens & the craze for crochet.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    One/Of by Patricia Voto is a modern New York collection of unique, bespoke pieces, utilizing reclaimed fabrics and findings. Sophisticated and easy, the silhouettes are extremely flattering.

DAY ONE FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    NYFW bounds into Spring 23 with luscious pinks, elegant takes on camo, delicate lingerie, recut shirtings and a new appreciation for traditional women’s crafts.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Anthony Hendrickson does something that has become extremely hard to do these days. He designs a primarily denim focused collection that is thoroughly unique and fun.

FGI COMMUNIQUÉ CURATORS

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