DAY THREE: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2022

“On behalf of Fashion Group International, I am delighted to announce FGI COMMUNIQUÉ will return for this upcoming season! Since 1936, FGI has been an essential resource for industry information at the zeitgeist of innovation.” — Maryanne Grisz, President & CEO, Fashion Group International

ART MAJOR

Fine art and fashion continue their symbiotic relationship this season. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta met at RISD, and their art-informed designs have been exhibited in museums. This season they over-printed knits with artwork by Latta’s late friend, printmaker Matthew Underwood. Supima held their 15th annual design competition this season, exhibiting the colorful work of students from top design schools. Marni, designed by Francesco Risso, made its NYC debut this season. The palette was inspired by the changing light in the Italian countryside, but the arty energy of the collection was pure Manhattan. Sergio Hudson cited a 1991 YouTube video of Prince as his inspiration for a collection that brimmed with vivid color-blocking and rockstar glamour.

WORK EASY

Workwear softens this season while keeping its utilitarian appeal. Ulla Johnson evolved her recent exploration into sturdy cottons, sweetened by romantic touches like gathered poet sleeves. Fried Rice, a Lower East Side-based streetwear brand, showed practical yet eye-catching coveralls and matched sets, highlighted by contrast patch pockets and crisp topstitching. Private Policy, by Siying Qu and Haoran Li, offered roomy pockets for a tee over easy cargos, effortlessly blending fashion and function.

GOTHIC TALE

The overarching lingerie influence of the season takes on a gothic slant in deconstructed silhouettes with plenty of skin-show. Australian designer Dion Lee is an expert in concealing and revealing the body, evidenced by precisely cut dresses, peekaboo tops and structured mini-skirts that are meant for any gender expression. Elena Velez has referred to her work as “aggressively delicate.” That oxymoron held true in her current collection, with fragile yet tough plays on bondage straps and corsetry. Felisha Noel of Fe Noel drew upon her own grief to come up with tender designs that stirred the emotions, showing that there is beauty to be found in our darkest moments.

DYEING FOR YOU

Tie-dye has come a long way since its hippie Woodstock-era days. Designers explore the artisanal roots of the time-honored technique, coming up with complex patterns and rich color combinations. Ulla Johnson, long a proponent of handiwork, collaborated with craft communities in Bangalore for her shibori-dyed pieces, which included a string-tied cami, a flounced skirt and a pajama-like ensemble topped with a sweater knitted from silk ribbons. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra was on a spiritual quest this season, evidenced in trippy colors and multiple techniques—shibori dyeing, pleating and twisting—that gave an almost psychedelic effect to easy yet intricate dresses and separates.

PURPLE REIGN

With all the interest in spirituality and magic this season, it’s no wonder that purple is having a moment. The color has long been associated with mysticism, as well as with royalty and creativity. Marni brought out the hue’s sophisticated side in a chic coat-and-slim pants ensemble, while Prabul Gurung, Humanitarian honoree at the upcoming 2022 FGI Night of Stars, went with a soft lavender for a draped minidress topped with a sequin-encrusted blazer. Ulla Johnson showed intensely pigmented purple jeans worked with a lilac poet’s blouse. Maxwell Osborne for AnOnlyChild is one of several creators who used velvet this season, cutting the plush fabric into an easy ultraviolet tracksuit. And Jason Wu explored the color’s natural beauty with overscaled flower motifs by artist Leonardo Pucci, who the designer discovered on Instagram.

IMAGES: IMAXTREE

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DAY SIX FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    NYFW ends with a powerful explosion of glamour & glitz, topping off a week filled with garden party florals, sweet slip dresses, pure whites, lovely lace and a cocktail of juicy oranges.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Theophilio is a Brooklyn born collection designed by Edvin Thompson. The brand celebrates the struggle and overcoming of disadvantages, an inspiring modus operandi.

DAY FIVE FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Flounces get big and bouncy, black-and-white evolves, all bodies are celebrated, New York City’s melting pot is reflected in designers’ far-flung inspirations and yellow is the color of the moment.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Maisie Schloss, the founder and designer of Maisie Wilen, knows what she wants. Without hesitation, she designs bold, bright and beautiful pieces that enhance the body and flatter the soul.

DAY FOUR FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Sheer chiffons and gentle colors herald spring romance, cool city girls get tailored, vivid stripes bring joy, denim shows its artisanal side and mirror-finish silver becomes the metal of choice.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    I don’t know how to fully describe the phenomenon of LoveShackFancy. People are passionate about this brand.

DAY THREE FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Fine art informs prints, workwear goes soft, lingerie gets a Goth twist, tie-dye glows up and the color purple reigns supreme.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Marrisa Wilson designs a joyful collection! Looking at it generates happiness. That’s not easy to accomplish these days.

DAY TWO FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    Giant flowers, pretty grunge, faded jeans, highlighter greens & the craze for crochet.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    One/Of by Patricia Voto is a modern New York collection of unique, bespoke pieces, utilizing reclaimed fabrics and findings. Sophisticated and easy, the silhouettes are extremely flattering.

DAY ONE FEATURES

  • FASHION REPORT
    NYFW bounds into Spring 23 with luscious pinks, elegant takes on camo, delicate lingerie, recut shirtings and a new appreciation for traditional women’s crafts.
  • ONES TO WATCH
    Anthony Hendrickson does something that has become extremely hard to do these days. He designs a primarily denim focused collection that is thoroughly unique and fun.

FGI COMMUNIQUÉ CURATORS

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