DAY THREE: SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2022
“On behalf of Fashion Group International, I am delighted to announce FGI COMMUNIQUÉ will return for this upcoming season! Since 1936, FGI has been an essential resource for industry information at the zeitgeist of innovation.” — Maryanne Grisz, President & CEO, Fashion Group International
Fine art and fashion continue their symbiotic relationship this season. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta met at RISD, and their art-informed designs have been exhibited in museums. This season they over-printed knits with artwork by Latta’s late friend, printmaker Matthew Underwood. Supima held their 15th annual design competition this season, exhibiting the colorful work of students from top design schools. Marni, designed by Francesco Risso, made its NYC debut this season. The palette was inspired by the changing light in the Italian countryside, but the arty energy of the collection was pure Manhattan. Sergio Hudson cited a 1991 YouTube video of Prince as his inspiration for a collection that brimmed with vivid color-blocking and rockstar glamour.
Workwear softens this season while keeping its utilitarian appeal. Ulla Johnson evolved her recent exploration into sturdy cottons, sweetened by romantic touches like gathered poet sleeves. Fried Rice, a Lower East Side-based streetwear brand, showed practical yet eye-catching coveralls and matched sets, highlighted by contrast patch pockets and crisp topstitching. Private Policy, by Siying Qu and Haoran Li, offered roomy pockets for a tee over easy cargos, effortlessly blending fashion and function.
The overarching lingerie influence of the season takes on a gothic slant in deconstructed silhouettes with plenty of skin-show. Australian designer Dion Lee is an expert in concealing and revealing the body, evidenced by precisely cut dresses, peekaboo tops and structured mini-skirts that are meant for any gender expression. Elena Velez has referred to her work as “aggressively delicate.” That oxymoron held true in her current collection, with fragile yet tough plays on bondage straps and corsetry. Felisha Noel of Fe Noel drew upon her own grief to come up with tender designs that stirred the emotions, showing that there is beauty to be found in our darkest moments.
DYEING FOR YOU
Tie-dye has come a long way since its hippie Woodstock-era days. Designers explore the artisanal roots of the time-honored technique, coming up with complex patterns and rich color combinations. Ulla Johnson, long a proponent of handiwork, collaborated with craft communities in Bangalore for her shibori-dyed pieces, which included a string-tied cami, a flounced skirt and a pajama-like ensemble topped with a sweater knitted from silk ribbons. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra was on a spiritual quest this season, evidenced in trippy colors and multiple techniques—shibori dyeing, pleating and twisting—that gave an almost psychedelic effect to easy yet intricate dresses and separates.
With all the interest in spirituality and magic this season, it’s no wonder that purple is having a moment. The color has long been associated with mysticism, as well as with royalty and creativity. Marni brought out the hue’s sophisticated side in a chic coat-and-slim pants ensemble, while Prabul Gurung, Humanitarian honoree at the upcoming 2022 FGI Night of Stars, went with a soft lavender for a draped minidress topped with a sequin-encrusted blazer. Ulla Johnson showed intensely pigmented purple jeans worked with a lilac poet’s blouse. Maxwell Osborne for AnOnlyChild is one of several creators who used velvet this season, cutting the plush fabric into an easy ultraviolet tracksuit. And Jason Wu explored the color’s natural beauty with overscaled flower motifs by artist Leonardo Pucci, who the designer discovered on Instagram.