DAY SIX: THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2022
“On behalf of Fashion Group International, I am delighted to announce FGI COMMUNIQUÉ will return for this upcoming season! Since 1936, FGI has been an essential resource for industry information at the zeitgeist of innovation.” — Maryanne Grisz, President & CEO, Fashion Group International
New York Fashion Week ended with an explosion of sequins and shine, expressing a desire for fun and glamour with a dash of look-at-me confidence. Tom Ford, master of seductive splendor, showed his signature lamé blazers atop glimmering separates like silver-trimmed bras, bejeweled mesh tees, embroidered Western shirts and silver-plated gym shorts. Michael Kors continued his love affair with classic American glam, offering sleek power-dressing blazers paired with slinky sequin-covered sarongs. Sally LaPointe, an FGI Rising Star Winner, showed her elegant evening-ready pieces in jellybean colors this season; an aquamarine tailored satin coat over marabou-trimmed chiffon pants borrowed from both boardroom and boudoir. All three designers captured the freedom and complexities of being a woman in the 21st century.
“Florals for spring? Groundbreaking,” sarcastically quips the fictional Miranda Priestly in Devil Wears Prada. Blossom motifs may not be cutting edge, but they are nevertheless endlessly appealing. Wes Gordon captured the DNA of the Carolina Herrera label with exuberant florals that he used for a femme two-piece dress and a bloom-printed sweater over a mismatched flowery skirt. Batsheva Hay of Batsheva, known for her prim prairie dresses, offered a spring-printed pajama set. Adam Lippes was inspired by a recent trip to Egypt, where he sketched the flowers that became his prints and embroidery motifs. Shawn Reddy, VP of design for Derek Lam 10 Crosby, also drew upon time spent in North Africa for his Moroccan-inspired floral that he fashioned into a ruffled top with matching boxers.
The “nap dress” was a pandemic-era phenomenon, a comfy yet pretty lounging piece that offered a nice break from baggy sweats. For next spring, that look evolves into dresses that could double as nighties. Adam Lippes covered a silky slip with a matching tailored coat. Ukrainian designer Svitlana Bevz of Bevza showed a slinky column that got interest from traditional Ukrainian crochet used as insets at the bust. Junny Hibert of Junny, in a collection entitled “Pause”, showed ballet-influenced pieces including a vintage-style slip-dress with shirred details. Fendi updated their slipdress with an asymmetric hem, and Kaiane Designs showed a charmeuse mini-chemise that was veiled with a sheer coat.
White is a palette cleanser, a blank slate, an absence of color that allows creative silhouettes and subtle detail to take center stage. Svitlana Bevz of Bevza used layered panels to bring interest to precisely draped pieces. Gabriela Hearst used her signature craftiness to enliven a gossamer sweater dress. Elena Burenina, a Ukranian designer showing at Kviv Art & Fashion Days, presented a sculptural white dress, chillingly accented with blood-red hands. Peter Do showed a mostly genderless collection, including sweeping a snug white tank worn with a sweep of pleats. Israeli-born designer Nili Lotan is a master of relaxed tailoring, evidenced by her perfectly slouchy blazer and pants, in slightly mismatched ivories.
Intricate lace becomes a key material for ready-to-wear, adding a precious element to both day and evening pieces. Frederick Anderson is partial to the filigree fabric; this season he used a rose-colored lace for an easy skirt set and cut a little frock in ornate purple. Dennis Basso showed a white lace column dress. Ivan Frolov of Frolov, a Ukrainian designer who showed at Kviv Art & Fashion Days, calls his collection “couture-to-wear”. He used an icy mint lace for a mini-dress with sleeves that cascaded to the floor and floated like butterfly wings when the model moved. Downtown Maryam Nassir Zadeh gave lace a streety edge with stretchy top and asymmetric wrap skirt.
ORANGE YOU GLAD
Orange emerges as a key color for next spring, bringing a juicy citrus pop to all categories. Laquan Smith, in a departure from his super-sexy skin-revealing styles, showed a covered up frock in a fiery shade. TheRealB, by Indian designer Binal Kiritkumar Patel, used a poppy shade for a jersey dress and a sheer printed pants set. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra went with a lipstick orange for a body-con sheath. Eckhaus Latta brought out the hue’s casual side with a ribbed sweater over vivid red-orange jeans.