DAY ONE: FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2022
“On behalf of Fashion Group International, I am delighted to announce FGI COMMUNIQUÉ will return for this upcoming season! Since 1936, FGI has been an essential resource for industry information at the zeitgeist of innovation.” — Maryanne Grisz, President & CEO, Fashion Group International
The passion for pink shows no signs of slowing down. Christian Siriano, Fashion Star honoree at upcoming 2022 FGI Night of Stars, conjured up high glamour with a frilly shocking pink trapeze dress, fittingly shown in at Elizabeth Taylor’s former Manhattan townhouse. Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim of Monse veiled a printed shirt with another shirt, this one cut from filmy rose-tinted tulle. Emerging designer Lu Chen of Lùchen showed a bouncy pink ensemble, while Johnson Hartig at Libertine used a delicate pink for a tailored blazer and Chinoiserie-printed pajamas. New adaptive fashion line Double Take softened classic suiting with an appealing blush tone.
Camo takes an elegant turn for next Spring. Monse contrasted the rugged nature of camouflage with lingerie pieces like laced-front bralettes and sheer petticoats. Libertine’s Johnson Hartig applied his signature whimsy to a vintage French fatigue jacket, embroidering its surface with multicolor beaded butterflies. Terry Singh, a 2022 FGI Rising Star Finalist, offered a masterfully tailored jacket-and-skirt ensemble, bringing modern refinement to the time-honored motif.
Lingerie influences take their cue from historical styles this season. Monse’s cage-like dresses, laced details and structured skirts recalled antique corsets and horsehair crinolines, made modern with elastic waists and inventive materials. Byron Lars, FGI President’s Award honoree, showed a sheer lace dress underpinned with strapless bra and vintage-y briefs, complete with dangling garters. Sea’s exploration of Etsy-type crafts informed a doily-like bra with matching skirt.
The crisp shirt is one of those items that can be endlessly reinvented. For next spring, designers offer many variations. Byron Lars cut striped shirting into his signature torso-skimming shape, and added flowing panels. Maria Cornejo showed a chic wrap shirtdress and Tanya Taylor used shirting for an asymmetric ensemble, part of a collection inspired by “graphicness” and the spontaneous way artists dress. Eco-conscious designer Maria McManus offered super-fine organic cotton shirting in a sunny yellow, and Monse showed easy shirts worn in a variety of ways, including one tied at the waist, grunge-style.
Childhood friends Monica Paolini and Sean Monahan of Sea have been quietly evolving their label toward an emphasis on craft. This season, inspired by the lockdown era, they were drawn to the kinds of handiwork women traditionally did at home: crochet, embroidery, needlepoint, quilting. The result is an exquisite collection filled with super-desirable pieces made even more special with artisanal touches like smocking, scalloped edges, appliqués and ric rac trim. Most pieces were shown in shades of white, including white eyelet lace, giving the collection a timeless, romantic feel.