EDITION TWO: TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2025

BY MARYANNE GRISZ

Aknvas

Designer: Christian Juul Nielsen

For Creative Director Christian Juul Nielsen, Spring/Summer 2026 is both personal and present: inspired by his own creative awakening at a Danish boarding school, and mirrored today as his niece begins the same journey alongside the Princess of Denmark. The collection unfolds in three chapters — The Preppy Arrival, where cropped trench coats in traditional gabardine, denim, and bonded lace pair with striped cotton shirts topped with 3D flowers, reimagining the uniform through a restrained yet poetic lens; The Experiment, where acid-washed denim, stained and marked leathers, laced-up open backs, hand-knitted hats, and prints echoing tie-dye channel rebellion and the thrill of students sneaking to nightclubs after hours; and Royal Intrusion, where a princess figure unsettles the order of school codes with sculpted ruffles, cropped ruffle gowns, corseted skirts, and ballgown volumes pared back into cotton, softened by embroidery and cast in butter yellow, soft pink, and powder blue. A story where tradition, rebellion, and royalty collide. Christian was FGI Rising Star winner 2022.

Jason Wu

Designer: Jason Wu

For the Spring 2026 collection, entitled “Collage” Jason Wu and the Robert Rauschenberg Foundation came together to explore the language of collage as both art and fashion. Inspired by Rauschenberg’s fabric-centered Hoarfrost series (1974-76) and Airport Suite editions (1974)-works that layered translucent textiles, solvent- transferred images, and unexpected materials-Wu translates this sensibility into garments that feel like living compositions. Strips of washed satin, silk twill, and airy organza are pieced together to echo Rauschenberg’s woven matrices, while lingerie-inspired trompe l’oeil effects, delicate embroidery, and artisanal finishes create intimacy and dimension. Jason was a former FGI Rising Star awardee.

Norma Kamali

Designer: Norma Kamali

Iconic designer and FGI Member, Norma Kamali, revisited and reinterpreted her famous “sweats’ collection from 1980, while staying true to her vision and focus on technology. A code was available to scan, where Norma narrated the collection as an art exhibit. Comfort and utilitarian ease were key with modern fabrics such as paper-thin terry cloth. The silhouettes were strong with dramatic shoulders, clean lines counterbalanced with straightforward bottoms. It was great to revisit the legacy!

Verdavainne

Designer: Cyril Verdavainne

New York Fashion Week unofficially was opened by designer Cyril Verdavainne, with his luxury label, Verdavainne, at Cipriani Wall Street. Cyril’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection unfolded like a journey through a modern garden in bloom, balancing architectural tailoring with fluid romanticism. A spectrum of looks moved from luminous ivories and periwinkles to bold florals, vivid neons, and gilded metallics, each imbued with meticulous handwork — brocades, Guipure lace, embroidery, and sequins that shimmered under the lights. Shirt dresses and portrait gowns shared the runway with trapeze cocktails and sweeping capes, offering both playful freshness and regal drama. Cyril was co-winner of FGI Rising Star Award in Eveningwear.

MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS

By John Russel Jones

FGI Communiqué Collections September 16th, 2025. An exclusive NYFW report capturing and highlighting influences, directional and significant style, color and fashion threads, featuring new talent and more.

SPONSORED BY:

HILLDUN

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