EDITION THREE: WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2025

BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES

BRYAN JIMENÈZ

Designer: Bryan Jimenez

To this reviewer, a lot of American streetwear has gotten a little lazy lately. Collections seem focused on basic sweatshirt and T-shirt silhouettes with iconoclastic logos or graphic art, paying little or no attention to actual garment design, but happily claiming high-end designer prices. Bryan Jimenez provided a refreshing alternative with his collection shown at the second session of New York Men’s Day last week. His experience working at a tailor shop and F.I.T. education are reflected in his thoughtful fabric choices and just-edgy-enough silhouettes. We particularly liked his wide, crunchy denim bottoms that stacked up around the ankles, and his plaid shorts and overshorts that had a nice touch of 1970s nostalgia.

SIVAN

Designer: Jack Sivan

We discovered Jack Sivan’s refreshing take on tailoring a few seasons ago at New York Men’s Day. Now the Brooklyn-based designer has graduated to doing solo collection presentations that are commanding quite a crowd. SIVAN Boulevard was presented at Manhattan apartment building The Ellery’s Terrace on Sunday. The designer drew inspiration from mid-century street photography, using his precise tailoring techniques to amplify vintage cotton drill, as well as linen and cotton suiting. Daring evening ensembles featured silk dupioni and tropical wools. The collection was also laudably inclusive, featuring typically statuesque models, as well as bespoke ensembles for men that might use wheelchairs or who face other physical challenges that take them beyond typical industry sizing standards. Our friends at Ettinger London also provided sophisticated bags that complemented Sivan’s elegant looks.

MAX ESMAIL

Designer: Max Esmail

Tailoring has been the key trend for menswear collections this season, and Max Esmail nailed it. The London-born designer brings educational chops from F.I.T. and Central St. Martins, and has also worked with Michael Andrews Bespoke, a Manhattan-based tailor that has birthed his own share of talent, and with Belgian fashion designer Tim Coppens. The collection brings a bit of cinematic Hollywood swagger mixed with some serious New York City attitude. Long leather trench coats looked like they’d be right at home on denizens of the Chelsea Hotel, while wide-lapeled motorcycle jackets paired with stone-washed denim gave a real “what are you lookin’ at” vibe.

THE SALTING

Designers: Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo

Design duo Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo of The Salting made itself known for its gender-inclusive collection that seemed to make every day feel like an escape to an exotic resort. Spring/Summer 2026 doesn’t disappoint, and the menswear options—again, really anybody can wear most of the pieces in the collection—were particularly outstanding. Some of our favorite pieces in the collection were made from an exclusive print on silk from Italian mill Ratti.

The abstract sail pattern was cut into a complete shirt, tie, and trouser ensemble that looked great together, but could also be broken up as components. Hand-knit cotton/cashmere cable sweaters were a must-have and an easy, loose DB jacket and trousers felt like a totally modern formal ensemble.

A first-time collaboration with tastemaker Nickelson Wooster featured a custom Italian printed cotton double-breasted blazer, an update on the camouflage “salted,” cotton Oxford shirt in French blue with a torn collar, and pleated walking shorts in cargo green: the fabric, another exclusive, is woven with metal for a permanent worn effect.

WOMENSWEAR COLLECTIONS

By Maryanne Grisz

FGI Communiqué Collections September 17th, 2025. An exclusive NYFW report capturing and highlighting influences, directional and significant style, color and fashion threads, featuring new talent and more.

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