DAY TWO: SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2022
“On behalf of Fashion Group International, I am delighted to announce FGI COMMUNIQUÉ will return for this upcoming season! Since 1936, FGI has been an essential resource for industry information at the zeitgeist of innovation.” — Maryanne Grisz, President & CEO, Fashion Group International
Outsize flowers mix with fresh ginghams and clean stripes, capturing classic American optimism. Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu presented their debut collection for Kate Spade with an updated take on the label’s cheerful, slightly retro-tinged roots. Lela Rose was inspired by cocktails, fresh fruit and the kinds of flowers that grace a table at a party. Painterly blossoms become giant appliqués, often covering the entire front panels of mini-dresses and maxi-shifts. Both collections were shown outdoors, underlining the carefree, sunny mood.
The grunge vernacular—mismatched layers of plaid, vintage lingerie, souvenir tees, and dresses worn over pants—goes soft and romantic for next spring. Hillary Taymour at Collina Strada is adept at this kind of mad mix, and this season she continued to evolve her romantic bohemian aesthetic with deadstock chiffons, crushed velvets and overdyed lace. Anthony Hendrickson, called his M65 collection “America Lost and Found,” a reference to his penchant for upcycling items found at thriftshops. Hendrickson, who is back at fashion week after a four year hiatus, collaborated with Scottish fiber artist Julie Colquitt for a wonderfully crafty crochet cardigan.
In keeping with the lived-in, relaxed mood of many collections, denim this season has a soft hand and an easy fit. M65, in collaboration with Unspun, a company that 3D-scans the body for made-to-order denim, showed hip-slung flares with a lightly distressed finish. Collina Strada offered washed jeans decorated with silvery flowers, and Joseph Altuzzara presented a laundered denim column skirt with self-belt details. Ophelia Chen and Abi Lierheimer of Bubblehaus, a NYC brand focusing on sustainable and genderless clothing, decorated their straight-cut wide legs with hand-painted flowers. AG by Adriano Goldschmied, an LA-based denim line, achieved a subtle play of washes with a patched five-pocket style.
IT’S A HIGHLIGHT
Highlighter greens, from true chartreuse to nearly neon yellow, make an impact in all categories this season. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Shouler brought out the color’s refined side in a tweedy, body-skimming coat, while Aaron Potts of APOTTS went elegantly active with a nylon windbreaker ensemble, meant for any gender expression. Collina Strada showed the color in a sculpted peplum top with matching fluid workpants. Australian label Bronx and Banco continued their exploration of sexy, body-positive pieces with a webby sheath in a vivid peridot shade. Tia Adeola was inspired by the work of Thierry Mugler this season, especially the late designer’s chiffon pieces. That influence was felt in an intricately pleated and ruffled minidress, made memorable in a citron yellow.
Crochet, in keeping with the craze for all things artisanal, continues to gain momentum. The twin sisters behind Raisa Vanessa showed a chic midriff-baring crochet ensemble, accented with bits of metallic gold. Naeem Kahn explored the eveningwear potential of the crafty technique with a tasseled cocktail number and matching cape. Sea used a multicolor approach for a deeply desirable crochet dress, resplendent with mixed stitchery. Bronx and Banco showed an openwork crochet set that conjured up hippie-era wall-hangings, while Proenza Schouler used a lustrous yarn for their elegantly rustic fringed bra-top and openwork pencil skirt.