Coffee browns, from latte to espresso, are the surprising new “it” color range. Jason Wu used a medium-roast tone for a sensuous off-shoulder top and draped skirt. Eckhaus Latta went with a toasty shade for their updated sweater set in a chunky rib knit. Raul Lopez of Luar explored a deep bittersweet tone for his monochrome head-to-toe ensemble that featured a draped hood, an emerging design detail this season. Michael Kors toughened up his uptown lady a bit, with a mottled brown leather bomber and matching utility skirt. Alejandra Alonso Rojas used various shades and textures for a chic ensemble that included a chocolate silk tie-neck blouse under a mocha leather coat and wrap-skirt. The look was styled with red boots, adding just the right pop of color.


The art of tailoring has been rediscovered of late, part of the movements for fewer-but-better wardrobing, gender-neutral aesthetics and the current uptick of interest in wear-it-to-work clothes. Kobi Halperin updated a chic houndstooth skirt suit that was covered in pavé clear sequins, giving the classic fabric a lacquered look. Wes Gordon for Carolina Herrera elongated a belted double-breasted jacket for a chic black-and-white plaid coat-plus-pants suit. Michael Kors modernized the herringbone suit with a crisp jacket over a zigzag hem skirt. Terry Singh is known for his interesting materials and precise tailoring. We loved a black skirt suit that featured swirling white lines that resembled a tangle of yarn. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler went clean and pristine with a pantsuit cut from a smooth pearly white suiting. The look got subtle dimension from a sheer white mock-neck tee layered over a classic white shirt.


The “academia aesthetic” that has been sweeping TikTok — school blazers, vests, plaid skirts, good-girl cardigans — breathes new life into preppy basics. The mother-daughter designer duo behind House of Aama played with proportion for a blue-trimmed cardigan and wide-leg cropped denim. Tommy Hilfiger, a progenitor of this style, offered an oversized polo sweater worn over easy Bermudas. Michael Kors brought a bit of louche undone-ness to an oxford blue button-up shirt, styled under classic camel trenchcoat and over tailored gray flannel shorts. Anna Sui showed her appealing argyles and pleated plaid skirts in the historic Strand bookstore, underlining the studious look. And Sandy Liang went gender-neutral with a cropped rosette-trimmed hoodie over a tailored white shirt. Her must-have pleated skirt was shown over matching slit-leg trousers, showing that there are lots of new ways to style these time-honored favorites.


The Museum at FIT’s new exhibit, “Statement Sleeves”, celebrates the various iterations of this essential fashion element, from the full-topped leg o’ mutton shapes of the 1800s to 1980s broad shoulders and beyond. Many collections in New York this week echoed the fascination with creative ways to dress the arm. Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada showed romantic ruched sleeves that conjured mille-feuille pastry. Nardos Imam of Nardos balanced a pleated peplum detail with full poet sleeves for a silky moss green blouse. Melitta Baumeister created a modern “gigot” effect with a puff-sleeved parka over a matching slim-armed sweater. Carolina Herrera has long been known for dramatic sleeves; this season the label’s designer Wes Gordon proposed a dramatic pagoda shape for a nubbly cocktail suit. Bibhu Mohapatra showed that sleeves can stand on their own with a sculptural white satin shrug that accented a plunge-neck embellished gown.


By Gary Wassner

Elisa Dahan has created an elegant, versatile new brand called Dodiee. I’ve known Elisa for many years now, and I have always been an admirer of her taste level and personal sense of style. She designed for a different label for a long time, until finally launching Dodiee.



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