Denim elevates for next fall with luxe embellishments and couture-like craftsmanship. Sally Lapointe took her pale-washed jeans to the next level with copious marabou trim. Sylvie Millstein of Hellessy studded her jeans with clusters of chunky crystals; one pair was shown with a matching denim corselet. Area, a New York design studio founded by Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, made news this week when Taylor Swift wore their crystal-trimmed slit jeans to the Super Bowl. For next fall, those gems become jumbo-sized and trim a head-to-toe denim ensemble. Gabriela Hearst used recycled cotton with hemp, a more sustainable version of traditional denim, for her quilted duster coat. Bibhu Mohapatra’s chic sheath dress isn’t really denim, but the glossy weave in an indigo shade gave it “faux denim” vibes.


The movement toward volumetric shapes in fashion continues, a pendulum swing from all the bodycon and skin-show. Raul Lopez of Luar played with scale for his signature tailored pieces, offering a voluminous gray flannel blazer tucked into a midi skirt with a sculpted peplum detail. Brandon Maxwell gave extra volume to a sleeveless knit maxi dress; its polo collar was ornamented with a chunky pyrite pin. Thom Browne used a 50s-ish bubble shape for a tweedy black-and-white frock that finished with a bow detail at the hem. Melitta Baumeister is a master at creating wearable volumes; this season she showed roomy culottes that were paired with a white shirt printed with a trompe l’oeil sweater vest. Kate Barton controlled the volume on a sculptural jacket with a complex construction of origami-like folds.


Lace, historically, was as valuable as jewels, and pieces of handmade lace were considered heirlooms. Nowadays, lace is machine made, but it remains a labor-intensive process that loses none of its precious character. Kobi Halperin topped black satin pants with a velvet lace jacket for a modern take on the feminine tuxedo. Michael Kors turned a simple sweater-and-skirt ensemble into something special with a soft turtleneck worn over a scallop-edged lace skirt, both in the gentlest shade of neutral pink. Bibhu Mohapatra used the season’s royal blue for a lace maxi-dress. Rachel Scott of Diotoma offered a cascading pink lace dress with an asymmetric hemline, peeking out from a black satin coat. Frederick Anderson is known for his use of lace. This season he showed a crop top and matching maxi-skirt in an embroidered lace; it was topped with a slouchy crochet cardigan, giving the look an elegant yet slightly grunge effect.


Fringe was everywhere on the New York runways, adding its burlesque-tinged whimsy to every classification. At Frederick Anderson, swinging fringe brought movement to a black crochet top layered over black leather leggings. Sally Lapointe trimmed a tracksuit with long black strands, a witty counterpoint to her usually minimalist aesthetic. Romeo Hunte made a tailored blazer rock-star worthy by covering it with lengths of crystal fringe. Christian Cowan’s maxi-skirt was made entirely from sequin-covered strips. Marina Moscone fashioned a cami-top and skirt set from silk organza rolled into bias tubes, and Tory Burch created a show-stopping coat that was completely covered in shimmery pearly-white strands.



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