DAY THREE: MONDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2023
BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS
Folkloric costumes offer endless inspiration, as designers celebrate (rather than appropriate) worldwide culture. Burkindy and Marusya Tamboura of Jahnkoy believe that “craft is an ultimate tool towards the healing of mankind”; that idea is captured in desirable pieces that draw from vintage as well as cultural heritage. Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon was inspired by the 19th Century Viennese court for a richly embroidered border. Terry Singh used an Italian red-and-black jacquard for a precisely cut cropped jacket. Monica Paolini and Sean Monahan of Sea explored Bavarian themes as well Americana for boldly patterned statement pieces. Ulla Johnson, who has long incorporated global handicrafts into her aesthetic, showed a wonderfully dimensional crochet sweater over a trapunto-appliquéd skirt.
Like jeans and trench coats, motorcycle jackets can be infinitely reinvented while still retaining their iconic quality. For next fall, Jonathan Simkhai played with both deconstruction and toughness, resulting in a biker jacket split into two to become a cropped jacket and matching miniskirt. Rag & Bone went lean and mean, while Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler added contrast as well as luxury to their version, with a flurry of snow-white fur trim. Omar Salam of Sukeina offered an elegantly tailored pantsuit embellished with gold zips for a look that was more boardroom than biker.
Plaids, forever a fall favorite, are bright and oversized with a nostalgic edge. Hanako Maeda drew from the punk music of her youth for Adeam’s moody, emo-inflected looks, while Snow Xue Gao was inspired by an image of Mod 60s protesters holding up “Miniskirts Forever” signs. Vivienne Tam mixed mismatched plaids with patterned knits and furry sleeves. Ann Sui always manages to find something new to say about the sixties era; this time her source was a photo of the hip denizens of New York’s louche Peppermint Lounge. Sui mixed the sixties references with touches of grunge and punk for a lime green tattersall coat matched to a mini-kilt and worn with a lace-trimmed blouse and heavy knee-high boots.
Sweaters for next fall are all about texture and creative stitchery. Aaron Potts of APOTTS showed head-to-toe winter white ensembles that looked like fur but revealed themselves as knits upon closer inspection. Sea showed a whimsical take on the classic Fair Isle; a sheep motif was a witty reminder of the soft wool’s source. Alejandra Alonso Rosas used a flecked pink yarn for a super-tactile crochet bateau-neck pullover. Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters spun multiple textures of yarns into a giant-gauge knit yellow maxi-column. Emma Gage of Melke took the whimsy idea further with a chunky cardigan ornamented with dimensional nectarine-slice appliqués. Designers Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus of Eckhaus Latta showed a cozy zip cardigan (hand-knit in Bolivia) over a plush corduroy midi-skirt in the same shade of fruity pink.
NYFW kicks off with a happy crafty vibe at Jahnkoy and Bulan, while tailoring gets an update at Terry Singh, Atelier Cillian and Libertine. Florals look right for fall at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada and Christian Siriano, and head-to-toe black creates magic at APOTTs, Dion Lee and Jonathan Simkhai.
Victor De Souza’s vision is creative and unique. His collections are not affected by the passage of time, in fact they aim to harmonize the past and the present. In many respects, they are unique and unusual.
Cargo gets elevated at Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone and Heron Preston, lingerie looks come out from under at Dion Lee, Area and Anna Sui, denim goes artisanal at Derek Lam 10 Crosby and Sally Lapointe, and animal prints continue to evolve with butterfly markings at Prabal Gurung and zebra stripes at Alexander Wang.
I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination!
Global culture is celebrated at Jahnkoy, Sea and Ulla Johnson, motorcycle jackets prove their iconic stature at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler and Sukiena, plaids mix mod, grunge and punk influences at Adeam, Vivienne Tam, Snow Xue Gao and Anna Sui, and dimensional sweaters rule at APOTTS, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Melke and Eckhaus Latta.
Puppets and Puppets may be a cult brand at this point, but it’s drawing a lot of eyes to its thoroughly unique viewpoint. Elevated from last season's show, today I saw wearable and desirable clothing.
Valentine’s day gets an edge with shocking pink at Carolina Herrera and Christian Siriano, while leather goes supple and sensual at Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra and Coach. Silver is the metal of choice at Laquan Smith and Anna Sui and ruffles complete the romantic mood at Aknvas and Ulla Johnson.
Sometimes what’s old is really new again. I’ve followed the career of Custo Barcelona for many decades and through many iterations, large and small. Now, Custo is back with the same spirit and verve that his past collections have always exhibited.
Minimalism offers a welcome calm with tailored neutrals from Michael Kors Collection, Brandon Maxwell and Tory Burch. Artisanal dyeing goes next level at Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson. Silhouettes get voluminous at Bibhu Mohapatra, Marc Jacobs and emerging designer Kate Barton, while sensuous goddess drapery hugs the body at Hellessy, Jason Wu, Sally Lapointe and Dion Lee.
Bach Mai is not only one himself, but he designs for them! And stars of all statures. His clothing is impeccably made, dramatic, sexy, and elegant - qualities that are often hard to balance in any one garment. He does it well.
Suitings get deconstructed at Ashlyn, Thom Browne and Luar. Fairytale characters come to life at Rentrayage, Victorian Maiden, Maison de Hoe and Ph5. Maxi-Coats stride down runways at Michael Kors Collection, Christian Cowan, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and FromWhere, and escapist fantasy reigns at Rodarte, Custo, Colin Locasio and La Fuori.
Erin Beatty has re-emerged as the designer behind the brand Rentrayage. Her former creative endeavor was the much-loved brand, SUNO. Though there is virtually no similarity between Suno and Rentrayage, Erin’s style and aesthetic permeates every piece.