DAY TWO: SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2023
BY GARY WASSNER
DUR DOUX
I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination! Coupled with a thoughtful and cautious approach to brand creation, they continue to impress.
The clothing is statement clothing for an affordable price, utilizing fabrics that are as deceptive as they are beautiful. The prints are dynamic, almost three-dimensional in appearance, and yet light as a feather in many cases. What look like heavy brocades and velvets are actually soft and weightless on the body.
All the designs are clean, flattering silhouettes with just enough skin showing to be sexy but not overtly provocative. For such a young company, they’re doing everything right. Building their brand piece by piece, they found a voice that defines them. Easy to wear, statement dressing that is affordable and comfortable; from glamorous, sequined evening dresses to tasteful jackets and bottoms. They cover the needs of so many women despite having put out only modest sized collections to date.
I’m a fan of those who understand that they must combine the creative with the commercial, the showstopper with the daywear, the illusion with the reality of the business they’re in. Having seen this brand for only two seasons now, I look forward to witness what will come next! With each design they turn out, the product gets more focused and more effective in telling their story. They are playing in a price point that is so attractive, I’m amazed at the final product itself. Good business sense tells me that they are destined for a long and lucrative career in the fashion space. Resolve like theirs cannot fail. Definitely a brand to watch.
SPONSORED BY
CURATORS
Founder/Creative Director of MintModa
Fashion/Art Forecasting and FGI Board Member
Hilldun Corporation’s CEO and FGI Board Member
DAY ONE
NYFW kicks off with a happy crafty vibe at Jahnkoy and Bulan, while tailoring gets an update at Terry Singh, Atelier Cillian and Libertine. Florals look right for fall at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada and Christian Siriano, and head-to-toe black creates magic at APOTTs, Dion Lee and Jonathan Simkhai.
Victor De Souza’s vision is creative and unique. His collections are not affected by the passage of time, in fact they aim to harmonize the past and the present. In many respects, they are unique and unusual.
DAY TWO
Cargo gets elevated at Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone and Heron Preston, lingerie looks come out from under at Dion Lee, Area and Anna Sui, denim goes artisanal at Derek Lam 10 Crosby and Sally Lapointe, and animal prints continue to evolve with butterfly markings at Prabal Gurung and zebra stripes at Alexander Wang.
I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination!
DAY THREE
Global culture is celebrated at Jahnkoy, Sea and Ulla Johnson, motorcycle jackets prove their iconic stature at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler and Sukiena, plaids mix mod, grunge and punk influences at Adeam, Vivienne Tam, Snow Xue Gao and Anna Sui, and dimensional sweaters rule at APOTTS, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Melke and Eckhaus Latta.
Puppets and Puppets may be a cult brand at this point, but it’s drawing a lot of eyes to its thoroughly unique viewpoint. Elevated from last season's show, today I saw wearable and desirable clothing.
DAY FOUR
Valentine’s day gets an edge with shocking pink at Carolina Herrera and Christian Siriano, while leather goes supple and sensual at Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra and Coach. Silver is the metal of choice at Laquan Smith and Anna Sui and ruffles complete the romantic mood at Aknvas and Ulla Johnson.
Sometimes what’s old is really new again. I’ve followed the career of Custo Barcelona for many decades and through many iterations, large and small. Now, Custo is back with the same spirit and verve that his past collections have always exhibited.
DAY FIVE
Minimalism offers a welcome calm with tailored neutrals from Michael Kors Collection, Brandon Maxwell and Tory Burch. Artisanal dyeing goes next level at Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson. Silhouettes get voluminous at Bibhu Mohapatra, Marc Jacobs and emerging designer Kate Barton, while sensuous goddess drapery hugs the body at Hellessy, Jason Wu, Sally Lapointe and Dion Lee.
Bach Mai is not only one himself, but he designs for them! And stars of all statures. His clothing is impeccably made, dramatic, sexy, and elegant - qualities that are often hard to balance in any one garment. He does it well.
DAY SIX
Suitings get deconstructed at Ashlyn, Thom Browne and Luar. Fairytale characters come to life at Rentrayage, Victorian Maiden, Maison de Hoe and Ph5. Maxi-Coats stride down runways at Michael Kors Collection, Christian Cowan, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and FromWhere, and escapist fantasy reigns at Rodarte, Custo, Colin Locasio and La Fuori.
Erin Beatty has re-emerged as the designer behind the brand Rentrayage. Her former creative endeavor was the much-loved brand, SUNO. Though there is virtually no similarity between Suno and Rentrayage, Erin’s style and aesthetic permeates every piece.
Related Articles
FGI Communiqué February 15th, 2024. An exclusive NYFW report capturing and highlighting influences, directional and significant style, color and fashion threads, featuring new talent and more.
FGI Communiqué February 14th, 2024. An exclusive NYFW report capturing and highlighting influences, directional and significant style, color and fashion threads, featuring new talent and more.
