Tailor-made suits get cut-up, disassembled, and rearranged for next fall. Ashlynn Park, who trained as patternmaker with legendary designer Yohji Yamamoto, demonstrated her command of the craft with beautifully cut puzzle-pieces that fused tailoring with dressmaking. Raúl Lopez of hot new label Luar evolved his strong-shouldered light gray gown from an 80s power suit. Thom Browne has long used the suit as a starting point for creativity. Here, an inside-out blazer becomes a skirt, along with half of a dress-shirt; a classic repp-striped tie sashes the waist. Alpha cut a menswear plaid into a corset-like minidress that seemed to fly off the body with floating pattern-piece panels.


The way we dress always has a narrative quality, but this season several designers took storytelling to fairytale levels. Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s fairy-inspired collection at Rodarte included goth nymphs in black negligees, complete with scary-governess bonnets. Rentrayage’s Erin Beatty also went a bit goth with a little Peter-Pan collared frock that looked like it could hang in Wednesday Adams’ closet. Victorian Maiden, an established Japanese label, brought its “kawaii” (meaning cute or endearing) looks to NYFW this season. Maison de Hoe, designed by Hanwei Su, showed layered ensembles that conjured fictional heroines. And PH5 showed their signature offbeat knitwear, this time with wavy hemlines over cellophane-like layers for looks that were both avant-garde and approachable.


The maxi-coat, that 1970s favorite, is back with a vengeance for next fall. Michael Kors showed a covetable camel version, matched to a slim poor-boy sweater, hot pants and knee-high boots. Christian Cowan’s muse this season was Judy Garland; he did the maxi-over-mini proportion as well, but his coat and short-shorts were jazzed-up with jet beads and layered over a wide-collared white maxi shirt. Joseph Altuzarra went long-over-long with a spectacularly dyed topper over a matching ankle-skimming silk column. Proenza Schouler’s double-breasted version was cut from nubby wool in a toasty brown, and ensembled with matching sweater and chocolate leather pants. Young-Eun Lee of FromWhere did a soft ivory coat worn over a sweet pajama pant-and-bralette set (bras are an ongoing must-have). And Catherine Holstein of Khaite offered a luxe sweep of fur in an intense shade of bottle green.


One of fashion’s functions is psychological escape, especially in periods of uncertainty. For next fall, designers deliver much-needed flights of fancy with plenty of sparkle, fringe, splashy prints and vivid color. Colin Lacasio, known for his playful crafty looks, offered a crochet-blossom strewn cardigan worn over an obsession-worthy sequin-covered pencil skirt that was festooned with 3-D flowers. Alpha’s happy-crafty look is pieced together from patterned knits, appliques, mismatched belts and scrappy fringe. The Mulleavy sisters’ mother, an artist, created the trippy fairy motif for Rodarte’s ruffle-trimmed caftan. Thom Browne appliquéd giant surreal flowers for his “The Little Prince” inspired collection. Vidur Adlakha of La Fuori showed a shimmering painterly-patterned column, and Custo’s plunge-neck abstract-printed velvet dress was given an extra dose of imagination with an abbreviated blouse top, attached with garters.



Founder/Creative Director of MintModa

Fashion/Art Forecasting and FGI Board Member

Hilldun Corporation’s CEO and FGI Board Member


  • NYFW kicks off with a happy crafty vibe at Jahnkoy and Bulan, while tailoring gets an update at Terry Singh, Atelier Cillian and Libertine. Florals look right for fall at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada and Christian Siriano, and head-to-toe black creates magic at APOTTs, Dion Lee and Jonathan Simkhai.

  • Victor De Souza’s vision is creative and unique. His collections are not affected by the passage of time, in fact they aim to harmonize the past and the present. In many respects, they are unique and unusual.


  • Cargo gets elevated at Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone and Heron Preston, lingerie looks come out from under at Dion Lee, Area and Anna Sui, denim goes artisanal at Derek Lam 10 Crosby and Sally Lapointe, and animal prints continue to evolve with butterfly markings at Prabal Gurung and zebra stripes at Alexander Wang.

  • I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination!


  • Global culture is celebrated at Jahnkoy, Sea and Ulla Johnson, motorcycle jackets prove their iconic stature at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler and Sukiena, plaids mix mod, grunge and punk influences at Adeam, Vivienne Tam, Snow Xue Gao and Anna Sui, and dimensional sweaters rule at APOTTS, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Melke and Eckhaus Latta.

  • Puppets and Puppets may be a cult brand at this point, but it’s drawing a lot of eyes to its thoroughly unique viewpoint. Elevated from last season's show, today I saw wearable and desirable clothing.


  • Valentine’s day gets an edge with shocking pink at Carolina Herrera and Christian Siriano, while leather goes supple and sensual at Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra and Coach. Silver is the metal of choice at Laquan Smith and Anna Sui and ruffles complete the romantic mood at Aknvas and Ulla Johnson.

  • Sometimes what’s old is really new again. I’ve followed the career of Custo Barcelona for many decades and through many iterations, large and small. Now, Custo is back with the same spirit and verve that his past collections have always exhibited.


  • Minimalism offers a welcome calm with tailored neutrals from Michael Kors Collection, Brandon Maxwell and Tory Burch. Artisanal dyeing goes next level at Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson. Silhouettes get voluminous at Bibhu Mohapatra, Marc Jacobs and emerging designer Kate Barton, while sensuous goddess drapery hugs the body at Hellessy, Jason Wu, Sally Lapointe and Dion Lee.

  • Bach Mai is not only one himself, but he designs for them! And stars of all statures. His clothing is impeccably made, dramatic, sexy, and elegant - qualities that are often hard to balance in any one garment. He does it well.


  • Suitings get deconstructed at Ashlyn, Thom Browne and Luar. Fairytale characters come to life at Rentrayage, Victorian Maiden, Maison de Hoe and Ph5. Maxi-Coats stride down runways at Michael Kors Collection, Christian Cowan, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and FromWhere, and escapist fantasy reigns at Rodarte, Custo, Colin Locasio and La Fuori.

  • Erin Beatty has re-emerged as the designer behind the brand Rentrayage. Her former creative endeavor was the much-loved brand, SUNO. Though there is virtually no similarity between Suno and Rentrayage, Erin’s style and aesthetic permeates every piece.

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