DAY TWO: SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2023
BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS
LET’S GO CARGO
Elevated cargo looks are having a moment. Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada used a blurred plaid for slouchy cargos that got even more dimension from a box-pleated peplum detail. Rag & Bone polished up the look by topping cargos with a tailored blazer. Cross-Eyed Moose offered outdoorsy ensembles that stayed true to cargo’s utilitarian roots, while Preston Heron used a multi-pocket approach for a distressed leather set. Marc Jacobs paid homage to the recently departed Vivienne Westwood with romantic Old Masters-inspired silhouettes, here made modern in a crystal-studded olive drab detailed with oversized cargo pockets.
Lingerie looks come out from under with opulent fabric and plenty of lace. Phillip Lim showed Chantilly-trimmed pajama pants topped with a draped tunic. Dion Lee showed off his knack for revealing and concealing with a paneled shocking pink slip-dress, detailed with a triangular cutout. Rodarte showed a sweep of emerald green for lace-inset maxi dress, and Anna Sui used a pale matcha tone for a lustrous cami and slip set. Piotrek Panszczyk of Area was inspired by the beauty of fruits, as in a melon-pink underwire bra matched to a curvilinear miniskirt, both studded with faceted crystals.
The newest denim looks have a quirky, individualistic charm that comes from artisanal treatments and appealing new shapes. Derek Lam used the American Art and Crafts movement as a starting point for his Derek Lam 10 Crosby line, resulting in denim pieces that were both practical and slightly novel, as in a shearling-trimmed vest over cropped jeans. Marc Jacobs used a luxe mix of denim and velvet for a patchwork coat, and Sally Lapointe showed the must-have wide-leg silhouette, ornamented with shredded rips and topped with a fur-trimmed maxicoat. Heron Preston was inspired by the cool kids on the streets of New York for his bleached denim corset top over mended 5-pocket jeans. Rag & Bone founder Marcus Wainwright was also inspired by real New Yorkers for his chore-jacket and pencil skirt ensemble; the shapes are simple, but the mottled bleach treatment makes it special.
IN THE WILD
Animalia is reinvented every season. This time around, wildlife inspirations take on a more whimsical feeling with fantasy colors and over-scaled proportions. Prabul Gurung was inspired by butterflies, used for an exploded black-and-white motif on a knitted column dress. Puppets and Puppets cut a scarlet python pattern into sleek moto set; the pants have cutouts placed at the hip. Dion Lee used a realistic-looking reptile material for a laced one-shoulder minidress and Alexander Wang used graphic zebra stripes for eye-catching cropped pants topped with a furry jacket. Collina Strada took a different route by using the animal’s faces rather than their markings; the show was entitled “Please Don’t Eat My Friends”.
NYFW kicks off with a happy crafty vibe at Jahnkoy and Bulan, while tailoring gets an update at Terry Singh, Atelier Cillian and Libertine. Florals look right for fall at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada and Christian Siriano, and head-to-toe black creates magic at APOTTs, Dion Lee and Jonathan Simkhai.
Victor De Souza’s vision is creative and unique. His collections are not affected by the passage of time, in fact they aim to harmonize the past and the present. In many respects, they are unique and unusual.
Cargo gets elevated at Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone and Heron Preston, lingerie looks come out from under at Dion Lee, Area and Anna Sui, denim goes artisanal at Derek Lam 10 Crosby and Sally Lapointe, and animal prints continue to evolve with butterfly markings at Prabal Gurung and zebra stripes at Alexander Wang.
I’ve only known about this brand for less than a year. The mother/daughter team of Cynthia and Najla Burt won me over on our first encounter. Such determination!
Global culture is celebrated at Jahnkoy, Sea and Ulla Johnson, motorcycle jackets prove their iconic stature at Rag & Bone, Proenza Schouler and Sukiena, plaids mix mod, grunge and punk influences at Adeam, Vivienne Tam, Snow Xue Gao and Anna Sui, and dimensional sweaters rule at APOTTS, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Melke and Eckhaus Latta.
Puppets and Puppets may be a cult brand at this point, but it’s drawing a lot of eyes to its thoroughly unique viewpoint. Elevated from last season's show, today I saw wearable and desirable clothing.
Valentine’s day gets an edge with shocking pink at Carolina Herrera and Christian Siriano, while leather goes supple and sensual at Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra and Coach. Silver is the metal of choice at Laquan Smith and Anna Sui and ruffles complete the romantic mood at Aknvas and Ulla Johnson.
Sometimes what’s old is really new again. I’ve followed the career of Custo Barcelona for many decades and through many iterations, large and small. Now, Custo is back with the same spirit and verve that his past collections have always exhibited.
Minimalism offers a welcome calm with tailored neutrals from Michael Kors Collection, Brandon Maxwell and Tory Burch. Artisanal dyeing goes next level at Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Ulla Johnson. Silhouettes get voluminous at Bibhu Mohapatra, Marc Jacobs and emerging designer Kate Barton, while sensuous goddess drapery hugs the body at Hellessy, Jason Wu, Sally Lapointe and Dion Lee.
Bach Mai is not only one himself, but he designs for them! And stars of all statures. His clothing is impeccably made, dramatic, sexy, and elegant - qualities that are often hard to balance in any one garment. He does it well.
Suitings get deconstructed at Ashlyn, Thom Browne and Luar. Fairytale characters come to life at Rentrayage, Victorian Maiden, Maison de Hoe and Ph5. Maxi-Coats stride down runways at Michael Kors Collection, Christian Cowan, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and FromWhere, and escapist fantasy reigns at Rodarte, Custo, Colin Locasio and La Fuori.
Erin Beatty has re-emerged as the designer behind the brand Rentrayage. Her former creative endeavor was the much-loved brand, SUNO. Though there is virtually no similarity between Suno and Rentrayage, Erin’s style and aesthetic permeates every piece.