EDITION FIVE: WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2023

BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS

LET THEM EAT CAKE

Marie-Antoinette, with her pastel gowns, ribbon-tied bodices, and exaggerated panniers, has been impacting fashion since the day she arrived at Versailles in 1770. For next spring, her Rococo style lives on. Nardos Imam of Nardos showed a full-skirted high-low frock festooned with flowers that conjured up sugar-paste cake decorations. Sandy Liang, queen of downtown girly-girls, offered a puff-sleeved number in a sweet mix of gingham, lace and taffeta. Christian Siriano went all-out Rococo with a bejeweled pannier look, and Olivia Cheng of Dauphinette kept it young with a structured ultra-embellished minidress that finished with a playful beaded swag at the hem. Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera presented a “mini-crini” with a built-in corset in a lemon-chiffon color that was pure confection.

LESS IS MORE

There is a strong direction towards minimalism this season with looks that create impact via silhouette and innovative construction rather than surface embellishment. FForme, a label inspired by architectural shapes, showed creamy layers atop matching wide-legged shorts, a key proportion for next spring. Catherine Holstein of Khaite played with subtle volume for an artfully shaped silk tank dress. Svitlana Bevza of Kiev-based Bevza offered a fluid floor-sweeping T-dress that got interest from a geometric bralette and a dropped waist. Brandon Maxwell presented a capelet-sleeved blazer over sheer layers, all in shades of pristine white, and Melitta Baumeister showed a sculptural frock that was both playfully bouncy and serenely elegant.

TWINKLE, TWINKLE

Nowadays, sparkle is right for day, evening or anytime, an expression of joy and optimism. Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera covered a strapless sheath with silvery sequins of varying sizes, from tiny to dime-sized paillettes. Bibhu Mohapatra drew applause for a sheer frock that was beaded and embroidered with large-scale flowers and butterflies. Dennis Basso offered a glittery gown inspired by his muse this season, former “Debutante of the Decade” Cornelia Guest. Frederick Anderson presented a sheer and sparkling lounge look in mint-green, while Michael Kors paved a simple plunge-V frock with flower-shaped paillettes. Sally LaPointe encrusted her signature tailored blazer and slim pants with silver sequins and tinsel-like strands, creating high-impact head-toe shimmer.

LEATHER WEATHER

The world may be getting warmer, but the passion for black leather never fades. Next Spring’s leathers (whether real or vegan) are ready to go right into summer with lighter weights and abbreviated silhouettes. Bach Mai showed a polished cropped jacket-and-balloon skirt ensemble that referenced both workwear and fashion history, while Rachel Comey paired a high-gloss patent top with pin-striped tailored bermudas. Frederick Anderson showed a sleeveless, gather-skirted dress with a neckline that plunged to the waist, and Stuart Vevers at Coach layered delicate wine-red lace over a black leather corset-and-brief set. Jason Wu’s leather dress featured a built-in bra, and Sally LaPointe proposed an openwork black sweater with glossy jet-black pants.

ONES TO WATCH

By Gary Wassner

I didn’t intend to write the review I’m about to write. Verdavainne is not a label I was familiar with. However, I was thoroughly impressed with so much at this presentation, I had no choice but to acknowledge it.

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