FASHION REPORT

2023 SEPTEMBER EDITION FOUR

September 12, 2023

EDITION FOUR: TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 2023

BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS

BODY BEAUTIFUL

The body positive movement, the pandemic-era preference for loungewear, the shapewear obsession, and the rise of studio workouts (pilates, gyrotonics, dance, yoga) all come together in stretchy bodywear that can be worn on its own or function as everyday base-layer pieces. Gabriela Hearst layered a fishnet T-dress over a triangle bra and full coverage briefs. Hanoko Maeda at Adeam picked up on the “snatched waist” trend with a boned corset top over strappy leggings. Dion Lee elevated the hoodie with an elegant wrapped effect, matched to slouchy bermudas. Sandy Liang’s head-to-toe ensemble featured an asymmetric top and apron-layered pants, all in buttercream yellow. PrettyLittleThing showed a sheer thigh-high bodysuit with a hip-slung pencil skirt and Siying Qu and Haoran Li of Private Policy went truly active with a pink scuba bodysuit and coordinating pull-on miniskirt, underlining their save-the-sea inspiration this season.

TO DYE FOR

Tie-dye, shiburi, batik, dip-dye and other time-honored techniques get modernized for next Spring, whether achieved with truly artisanal methods or new digital iterations. Prisca Vera Franchetti of Priscavera showed a wonderful blurred stripe for a fluid shirt-set, while Proenza Schouler made their sheer layers even more airy with atmospheric sprays of blue-on-blue. Christian Siriano chose an ombré effect for his shimmering pantsuit, and Anna Sui showed splotchy overdyed denim. Ulla Johnson’s swirls of color gained dimension from lustrous pleats, and Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson of Studio 189 celebrated craftsmanship with vivid batik patterns, all made by hand in Africa, with no two alike.

SHIRT VARIATIONS

The shirt, like jeans or the trenchcoat, can be endlessly reinvented and still retain its original character, especially when cut from classic shirting fabrics. Erin Beatty of Rentrayage, known for her piecing and patchworks, used a mix of checks for an upcycled tunic cinched with a self-tie. Christian Juul Nielsen of Aknvas gave man-tailored stripes a femme twist with a flouncy peplum, rosettes and poufy bubble skirt, a key silhouette this season. Priscavera brought interest to tailored boxer short-and-shirt set with a subtle lacing detail that is both functional (as a shaping device) and decorative. Jane Siskin at Cinq à Sept also explored the bubble for a crop-top and midi-skirt combo, and Amy Smilovic of Tibi riffed on the ruffled tuxedo shirt in a perfect shade of petal pink. Michael Kors showed a shirttail tunic as a minidress, its front placket laced with a delicate gold chain.

FRINGE SOCIETY

If our current era is the new Roaring Twenties, then our modern-day flappers need fringe. Ohad Seroya of Retrofête used iridescent pailletted strands for an earthy yet glam slip dress. Brazilian designer Patricia Bonaldi of Patbo showed a two-piece crochet number, encircled with tiers of silky fringe. Bronx and Banco showed a strapless frock that was entirely covered in long swinging fringe, and Libertine covered their coat in a crayon-box range of bright trim. Laquan Smith draped sparkly fringe for a statement piece that was part necklace and part halter top; denim cargo pants grounded the look. More crochet was shown at Colin LoCascio; his lilac halter-dress was embellished with a border of knotted fringe in graduating shades of mint to aqua, creating an ombré effect.

ONES TO WATCH

By Gary Wassner

Bishme Cromartie’s brand is a bold celebration of the female form – streamlined, elegant, and coupled with confidence. His work is a reflection of the art that inspires him, and is a tribute to the boundary-breaking aspects of life.

OTHER EDITIONS

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