DAY TWO: SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2022

BY GARY WASSNER

ATELIER CILLIAN

For this to be Stephen Mikhail’s first collection is simply wonderful and rather astounding. He’s a charming and passionate young man for whom I have great expectations. After loving this so passionately myself, I can just imagine the future he will have.

He’s dramatic, yes. And the styling was rather dark. But the choice of fabrics and colors, the textures and finishes, the entire ambiance of the room was fabulous. His tailoring is impeccable from suiting to shirting to jackets and pants. Though there is definitely a feminine side to each silhouette, all the models were male and looked sexy and dangerous in the clothing. Their dark makeup and top hats added to the mystery of the presentation. And the clothing!! Cohesive, luxe, lush, from softly draped shirting to dark tweeds and brocades. Vivid reds and sensual lace next to grey flannels and pinstripes. The collection worked so well together that despite the obvious differences among the silhouettes and fabrications, there was a genuine harmony that pervaded the room.

My reviews are meant to point out ones to watch. I found one in Atelier Cillian and I’m going to continue to watch what Stephen Mikhail does with great expectations.

VICTOR GLEMAUD

Victor is a genius. That’s the most appropriate way to begin a review of him and his work. He’s unique, one of a kind, in his aesthetic, which is something so rare today. Trend does not drive him. Rather, style, color and fit elevate his collections.

When I write these reviews about the ‘Ones To Watch’ I don’t find it necessary to highlight only new brands and young designers. Fashion is ever-changing and ever-evolving. Someone can be new at any point in their career. They simply must design unique product that differentiates them from the crowd. Victor does exactly this!

I love to see his presentations each season whether on standing models or on the runway. But the runway for me has really given his clothing the added dimension of movement that only makes it so much more beautiful. His understanding of the human silhouette is incomparable, allowing him to design body hugging designs that flatter and inspire. They wrap the wearer in luxurious comfort, while accentuating the best in each person who puts his clothing on.

He designs for everyone—all genders, sizes, races and individual tastes. His customers are confident, self-assured, but never aggressive and flamboyant. They have impeccable taste, but are not afraid to wear designs that show off their best assets. This season he has outdone himself with more evening pieces, draped, body con, elegant and sexy. He showed his full array of talent, still with no frills, no gimmicks, no sequins and rhinestones. Just great silhouettes perfectly constructed and elegant to behold.

Many designers feel the need to shock or to experiment with unusual shapes and materials, to literally push the envelope to the point of ripping it apart totally, to constantly experiment with techniques and silhouettes, in order to capture the eyes of the fashion world. There’s a place for all of them. But there’s a place for Victor Glemaud too. There are no gimmicks in his work. No shocking cutouts or fanciful draping. No logos to identify his label. His designs speak for themselves and they shout out his name by virtue of his consistency, colors, and meticulous fit.

Victor is a classic and he deserves accolades for bringing to the fashion world a perspective that speaks softly and beautifully, rather than one that shouts at us. His customers wear his clothing, the clothing definitely doesn’t wear them. I’ve heard this said many times before, but if any designers epitomize this expression better than Victor Glemaud, I’m unaware of them. He is one to watch. And to watch and to watch and to watch.

IMAGES: IMAXTREE

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