EDITION SIX: THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 2023

BY SHARON GRAUBARD & NICOLE FISCHELIS

DESTROY & REPAIR

The movement for destruction is balanced with the idea of repair in recent seasons, with mending newly appreciated as an important life skill. Elena Velez staged a mud fight at her show; the mud-stains and raw edges gave an everyday streetwear feel to feminine silhouettes like a cotton corset and smudged bubble skirt. Collina Strada created a seemingly haphazard collage of lace, plaid and cargo pants. Jason Wu hand-distressed a fit-and-flare midi-ress, creating a kind of deconstructed lace. Zoe Champion and Wei Lin’s for Ph5 paid homage to the factory in China where their clothes are made, showing piles of garments that suggested a modern nomad. Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore of Who Decides War are masters of piecing, distressing and stitching; those techniques come together for clothes that are both scrappy and precious.

SUMMER TWEEDS

Tweeds went light and airy this season, both in texture and color. Frederick Anderson used a golden weave for a belted blazer over full ankle-grazing skirt; those full midi-skirts are a key item for next spring. Dennis Basso used a soft tweed with multicolor flecks for a shorts-suit, while Anna Sui did a young take on the “Coco”, with a tweedy cardigan jacket and miniskirt. Jason Wu cut tweed into a cropped top and slim skirt, their edges left raw. Who Decides War gave their tweed jacket an edge with a denim tab collar, and Kobi Halperin topped a floral maxiskirt with boxy little Coco jacket, trimmed with fringe.

GO CARGO

Cargo styles continue to evolve, as part of the workwear influence in fashion. Teddy Vonranson updated the humble chore jacket with an abstract pattern that looked felted. Brooklyn-Based Jane Wade created a downtown chic ensemble that featured a halter top with attached utility pockets. Who Decides War covered their cargo in pavé sequins, while Laquan Smith went deluxe with metallic leather in a gorgeous shade of lilac. Rachel Comey paired her cargo skirt with a velvet top, bringing luxury to a streety look, and Rentrayage showed an easy cargo miniskirt.

SAY IT IN BLACK & WHITE

Every season has its black and white looks, but the high-contrast combo looks especially right for spring. Carly Mark and Ayla Argentina of Puppets & Puppets punctuated a black minidress with a draped white detail, and Libertine covered a pantsuit with graphic white dots. Melitta Baumeister used a pen-and-ink snake motif for her sculptural ensemble. Amero x Livette created a graphic look for textured sheath, and Dennis Basso used negative/positive dots for his bolero-over-dress ensemble. Studio 189 explored the graphic side of craft with a striped top over diamond-checked pants, both created with batik techniques.

ONES TO WATCH

By Gary Wassner

I didn’t intend to write the review I’m about to write. Verdavainne is not a label I was familiar with. However, I was thoroughly impressed with so much at this presentation, I had no choice but to acknowledge it.

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