The movement for destruction is balanced with the idea of repair in recent seasons, with mending newly appreciated as an important life skill. Elena Velez staged a mud fight at her show; the mud-stains and raw edges gave an everyday streetwear feel to feminine silhouettes like a cotton corset and smudged bubble skirt. Collina Strada created a seemingly haphazard collage of lace, plaid and cargo pants. Jason Wu hand-distressed a fit-and-flare midi-ress, creating a kind of deconstructed lace. Zoe Champion and Wei Lin’s for Ph5 paid homage to the factory in China where their clothes are made, showing piles of garments that suggested a modern nomad. Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore of Who Decides War are masters of piecing, distressing and stitching; those techniques come together for clothes that are both scrappy and precious.
Tweeds went light and airy this season, both in texture and color. Frederick Anderson used a golden weave for a belted blazer over full ankle-grazing skirt; those full midi-skirts are a key item for next spring. Dennis Basso used a soft tweed with multicolor flecks for a shorts-suit, while Anna Sui did a young take on the “Coco”, with a tweedy cardigan jacket and miniskirt. Jason Wu cut tweed into a cropped top and slim skirt, their edges left raw. Who Decides War gave their tweed jacket an edge with a denim tab collar, and Kobi Halperin topped a floral maxiskirt with boxy little Coco jacket, trimmed with fringe.
Cargo styles continue to evolve, as part of the workwear influence in fashion. Teddy Vonranson updated the humble chore jacket with an abstract pattern that looked felted. Brooklyn-Based Jane Wade created a downtown chic ensemble that featured a halter top with attached utility pockets. Who Decides War covered their cargo in pavé sequins, while Laquan Smith went deluxe with metallic leather in a gorgeous shade of lilac. Rachel Comey paired her cargo skirt with a velvet top, bringing luxury to a streety look, and Rentrayage showed an easy cargo miniskirt.
SAY IT IN BLACK & WHITE
Every season has its black and white looks, but the high-contrast combo looks especially right for spring. Carly Mark and Ayla Argentina of Puppets & Puppets punctuated a black minidress with a draped white detail, and Libertine covered a pantsuit with graphic white dots. Melitta Baumeister used a pen-and-ink snake motif for her sculptural ensemble. Amero x Livette created a graphic look for textured sheath, and Dennis Basso used negative/positive dots for his bolero-over-dress ensemble. Studio 189 explored the graphic side of craft with a striped top over diamond-checked pants, both created with batik techniques.
ONES TO WATCH
By Gary Wassner
I didn’t intend to write the review I’m about to write. Verdavainne is not a label I was familiar with. However, I was thoroughly impressed with so much at this presentation, I had no choice but to acknowledge it.
I didn't intend to write the review I'm about to write. Verdavainne is not a label I was familiar with. However, I was thoroughly impressed with so much at this presentation, I had no choice but to acknowledge it.
Bishme Cromartie’s brand is a bold celebration of the female form - streamlined, elegant, and coupled with confidence. His work is a reflection of the art that inspires him, and is a tribute to the boundary-breaking aspects of life.
Emma Gage founded Melke out of the desire to make incarnate the power of love, joy, and honesty in fashion. In a world where sustainability is now an imperative, Melke strikes the perfect balance between conscientiousness and unbridled exuberance.
A. Potts is a breath of fresh air, both the designer and the clothing. The unisex collection seamlessly blends modernity with timeless appeal, catering to all genders, sizes, and ages. Easy, flowing fabrics drape the body luxuriously. Each piece exudes versatility, making it a staple in any wardrobe.
Elisa Dahan has created an elegant, versatile new brand called Dodiee. I’ve known Elisa for many years now, and I have always been an admirer of her taste level and personal sense of style. She designed for a different label for a long time, until finally launching Dodiee.
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