DAY THREE: FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2021
FAMILY MEMORIES &
With all the freeform expression, rustic crafts and mismatched prints this season, pure whites provide a much-needed palate cleanser. The white shirt is always a must-have; Adam Lippes pairs his with a creamy flounced wrap skirt, while past FGI Night of Stars Superstar honoree, Carolina Herrera extends the shirt into a crisp jumpsuit. Proenza Schouler’s dreamy ensemble mixes slightly contrasting creams and chalks. Details count: welt seams, black buttons and swingy cut fringe bring dimension to modern minimalism.
Stan joins the ranks of labels that place an emphasis on craft, heritage and community. Designer Tristan Detwiler uses antique quilts that were owned by his grandmother or sourced around the globe. More autobiographical touches come from screened photos of San Diego, where he learned to surf. Snow Xue Gao is another designer who draws from family memories; this season it was her grandmother’s garden in Beijing. Gao’s collaged approach reflects her interest in dualities: masculine and feminine, draping and tailoring, east and west.
Some of the newest colors this season are nearly-neon brights or tinted pastels that conjure up DayGlo paint lightened with plenty of white. Designers use these vibrant shades as head-to-toe monochromes or softly contrasting ensembles. Fabrics, whether matte or shine, change the quality of the hue. Prabal Gurung uses lustrous silks while former FGI Rising Star, Phillip Lim showed a nubbly summer tweed. Matching shoes, as in past FGI Rising Star Winner, Sally LaPointe and Moschino, complete the color-centric look.
FREDERICK ANDERSON – LACEY LIGHTNESS
Frederick Anderson worked with Argentine collectives where the communities that make his delicate creations are bolstered financially, conferring a deeper nuance to the word “sustain”. His exquisite laces and webby angora hand-crochets were conceived with his sophisticated customers and celebrity clientele in mind, bringing an arty, downtown sensibility to elegant, body-skimming silhouettes. The overall effect is one of luxurious artisanal layers that offer an intricate yet airy ease.
MONSE – ACTIVE MEETS WHIMSY
Monse cofounders, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim talked about rock climbing and road trips as ways to escape the trials of the last year and a half. Their show’s Pier 62 skatepark setting underlined the cool, sporty attitude of the collection, which featured comfy rugby cardigans, nylon track pants, hippie-ish granny-square crochet skirts and whimsical dresses and sweaters festooned with flowers, mushrooms, vintage alarm clocks and other ephemera. Draped jersey dresses provided a sensuous body-con counterpoint to all the sport, slouch and craft.