EDITION ONE: MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2025
BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES
Menswear: Sneaking Sally Through the Alley
New York Men’s Day kicked off NYFW with some beautiful pieces that were artistic, wearable and,
most importantly for this market, quite salable.
Anyone observing New York Fashion Week from an outsider’s perspective might wonder why menswear appears to get so little attention during this twice-yearly event. Comparatively few brands stage shows, and those that do are often brands with a strong women’s following, so they include a few menswear looks to complement the overall season’s style. The truth is that the men’s fashion calendar is ahead of the women’s market: Menswear brands and buyers have been hustling since way back in July when Pitti Uomo officially launched the Spring/Summer 2026 season, and most orders were already written before we’d finished traveling to our Labor Day Weekend getaways.
Still, usually before the streets of Manhattan get completely overwhelmed by stilettos and paparazzi, the menswear industry takes advantage of the NYFW buzz and stages presentations, parties, and store openings. In fact, the official kick-off of fashion week is New York Men’s Day, the brainchild of the team at Agentry PR. I always feel like the day is menswear’s class reunion: everyone from journalists to designers to college professors to influencers and almost everyone in the industry is there. The day is split into two sessions, morning and evening, with four stagings by designers (or groups of designers) held at each session. NYMD’s morning session featured four outstanding brands that we thought were on-trend, salable, and “ones-to-watch.”
ARCHIE
Designer: Mark Smith Clarke
The brainchild of design director Mark Smith Clarke, the Archie collection, entitled “Spirit,” was possibly the most intellectual presentation of the day, with six models pushing a sort of post-modern carousel around, while a seventh stood in the middle. It seemed an appropriately stark image for the minimalist collection’s clothes. The silhouettes embodied volume with an urban workwear aesthetic. One favorite piece was a denim jacket with deeply scooped pockets, paired with ivory wide-legged pants. An almost A-line raglan-sleeved Mac coat dropped to mid-calf, the kind of jacket every city-dweller wants for full protection—with style—on rainy spring days.
Peak Lapel
Designers: Jack Milkes and Ben Stedman
Returning from last season, Peak Lapel, designed by duo Jack Milkes and Ben Stedman, is the sophomore collection from two recent Parsons graduates. This season, they built on their “keeping American Prep alive” aesthetic, including a pristine white cotton popover shirt that is being made in New England, an homage to the region’s rich history in textiles and apparel construction. Titled “Lawn Games,” the presentation was inspired by “a student’s time in-between: Summer.”
Clara Son
Designer: Clara Son
Clara Son’s “Reset” collection was a master class in apparel construction and deconstruction. While the South Korean native included pieces that played with the season’s larger themes: transparency, volume, and 1990s influences, the grouping was solidly her own. A black denim short-sleeved shirt featured pleats on one side, reminiscent of those in original trucker jackets, yet was also festooned with crystals, and was paired with a matching skirt with a pleated ruffle. Like the other outfits, these seemed to walk the line between streetwear with something more like formal clothing.
Oxblood Zebra
Designer: Reuben Shaw
This brand’s website describes Oxblood Zebra as living “at the intersection of refined design and personal narrative—where every stitch speaks to legacy, every silhouette honors craftsmanship, and every choice reflects a deeper sense of self.” We thought this was possibly one of the most salable collections of the season with its emphasis on updated tailoring stories. The white peak-lapel, high-waisted suit would make any Tom Wolfe fan proud and a sort of marigold safari jacket with one angular pocket felt completely modern.





























