“As we gather as an industry community, we honor and celebrate the creative work and talents of our New York fashion week designers showcasing FW2024 collections. This is a tribute to the vision and dedication to craft by these artists driving our industry forward.”

– Maryanne Grisz, FGI President/CEO


Art influences have been ruling prints for the last few seasons and New York runways were awash in creative variations. Puma, under the creative direction of Heiko Desens and Alastair McKimm, used a graphic silhouette motif to add energy to a roomy tracksuit. Johnson Hartig of Libertine celebrated his label’s twentieth anniversary with vivid photocollage effects, such as giant crystals floating against starry skies. Bach Mai offered pink flamingos, and Nardos Imam of Nardos enlivened a halter maxi-dress with overlapping concentric circles. Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada juxtaposed floral shapes with hand-painted watercolor blurs, for a corselet-over-Bermudas ensemble.


Winter whites are key for next fall, especially in head-to-toe monochrome looks. Peter Do took an elegant futuristic approach for his all-gender collection for Helmut Lang with a padded parka over sheer pants that suggested bubble wrap. Tarpley Brooks Jones of Tarpley showed a razor sharp white pantsuit with zip pockets at the elbows that brought a utility touch to the polished look. Mark Badgley and James Mischka of Badgley Mischka cut a creamy tweed into a sleek sheath. Terry Singh showed his signature skirt suits in all sorts of interesting fabrics this season; an ivory-colored coat-plus-skirt was a standout. Brooklyn-based Willy Chavarria showed a dramatic ensemble that mixed two of his key inspirations; urban sport separates were topped with a sweeping tailored greatcoat, all in a pristine shade of optic white.


Dimensional novelty sweater knits are part of the crafts revival in fashion, with many designers exploring stitchery, pattern, and volume. Collina Strada topped a fluid skirt with a slouchy pullover in large-scale plaid intarsia. Tommy Hilfiger showed a chunky striped sweater with a matching oversized scarf. More stripes showed up in Bulan’s wonderfully sculptural layers; Bulan designer Beam Ratchapol Ngaongam also offered chunky cables in tangerine orange. Sean Coutts of Pas Une Marque (translated to ”Not a Brand,”) showed a philosophy-inspired collection that included a beige and terracotta sweater that appeared to be woven from narrow knitted strips.


It’s a plaid, plaid world this season. Epperson layered mismatched plaids into a whimsical ensemble for his poetic, studious collection, while Libertine patchworked various plaids into a double-breasted suit. Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo of The Salting showed a tweedy plaid coat over an easy drawstring skirt. Helmut Lang’s Peter Do layered a plaid intarsia sweater over a fringed skirt; fringed blanket plaids are key this season. Tommy Hilfiger’s plaid mini-skirt suit was part of an upbeat collection that found a way to update time-honored Americana classics.


By Gary Wassner

Haoran Li and Siying Qu, the founders of Private Policy, are doing something different. This is a very ambitious thing to say in the world of fashion these days, but they truly are. They’re not tied to anything traditional; yet their collections are thematic interpretations of periods in time, through the lens of AI and the evolution of today’s younger, bolder and more daring consumer. They definitely have a clear POV and they do not hesitate to express it.



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