Designer: Omar Bertona

Bugatchi’s SS 27 collection doubles as a 45th anniversary marker for the brand. Head of design Omar Bertona previewed their Italian Daydream capsule, the Made in Italy collection he developed as an elevated expression of Bugatchi’s core line. For spring, the creative director drew on the coastal softness of Italy, specifically Lake Maggiore, the country’s second-largest lake, and the Borromean Islands that sit in it. The palette ran to azure, peach and beige, sun-soaked pastels and watery hues that held together across tailored and casual pieces alike. A palm tree pattern surfaced on camp shirts in cotton, linen and silk, as well as on swimwear and scarves. The hand-painted prints on several shirts, drawn from the islands, were among the strongest pieces in the room.

Bertona was especially enthusiastic about the subtle sartorial details, including back vents added for flexibility on the button-front shirts, color gradient on the cotton and linen polos, and a silk lining that elevated a bomber jacket to an entirely different place. The biggest takeaway was that these were pieces that easily went from day to night and work to leisure. In fact, their airy lightness was certainly a standout when walking through the line.

Designer: Todd Snyder

 Todd Snyder presented his Spring/Summer 2027 collection, called Lagon d’Azur, over the weekend, arriving shortly after his eighth CFDA nomination for Best Menswear Designer, a shortlist that also included his former employer Ralph Lauren. The islands served as a starting point, though the reference stayed subtle: a moodboard of beaded necklaces, books on photographer Peter Beard and moody paintings that set the color direction, with resort cliches avoided in favor of his usual workwear and tailoring archetypes seen through a more leisurely lens. Fabrication carried the theme, in linen blended with silk, wool or cotton for pieces that breathe without wrinkling or losing their shape.

Tailoring remained the anchor. Three-button sack jackets, high-waisted Hollywood trousers and suede field jackets formed the backbone, shown in rich browns, faded pajama stripes, crisp white and windowpane checks, then loosened with printed island shirts, mesh tanks layered under suiting and linen cargo shorts. The palette was deliberately worn down, with sun-faded citron, sea glass and madder red weighted against espresso, midnight pearl and volcanic ash, while cashmere-linen outerwear, voile tuxedo shirts and linen shaker sweaters handled the texture. Snyder’s collection notes describe wanting to “conjure an idea of lived-in luxury that elevates familiarity over fashion and patina over polish,” which for retail remains a dependable proposition: clothes for the customer who wants to look considered without looking like he is chasing fashion.

Todd is an FGI Rising Star alum.