WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2022

Now that the global fashion calendar has shifted and Madison Avenue Men’s Style Month has come to a close, it’s worth a look back at a few of the menswear designers featured at New York Men’s Day (NYMD) for Spring/Summer 2023 who offered looks that directionally celebrated a return to in-real-life interactions. Cast against the rest of the global menswear shows and presentations, NYMD was a riot of ingenuity and a return to sartorial normalcy from many different perspectives.

Trends spotted include the return of the suit in more relaxed and non-traditional forms, often paired with sandals and almost never with ties. Gender free offerings were again on prominent display – which at this point I think has moved from a conversation of trend to a conversation on labeling fashion itself. Below from my vantage point, were five NYMD standouts worthy of attention:

ATELIER CILLIAN

Designer Stephen Mikhal took us on a journey of Egyptian discovery – more specifically his line was inspired by the discovery of King Tutankhamen’s tomb by Howard Carter in 1922. And indeed yes, this line is a discovery of luxuriously tailored items constructed from fine fabrics and natural ones. Mikhal seems to revel in the challenge of working with difficult textiles and the effect is intoxicating – like the belted leisure suit in electric blue made from tightly woven Iraca palm and the tweed suit in midnight blue and gold that gave the effect of encasing the model in layered rope carpet.

TERRY SINGH

A FGI Rising Star menswear designer of the year finalist in 2022, Terry Singh knows how to bring it. His line is a celebration of freedom, connection and openness. And no pants. Expanding upon his repertoire of excellently tailored jackets paired with his now ubiquitous dhotis, Singe served up new elegance with fresh takes on this liberating style pairing and continues to build a bridge between East and West. I particularly appreciated the deft use of military blues in the line and Singh continues to branch out from his grey/black formal comfort zone.

TODD PATRICK

Focusing on the feeling of ease one gets from a relaxed family gathering, designer Desyree Nicole threads this intimacy and simplicity into pieces that may come to typify the new working man’s wardrobe staples in the office, remotely and all the fun places in between. It’s not easy to make a cropped suit jacket with a single button double breasted stance and wide lapels not look costumey or make loose boxy bowling shirts not look sloppy, but Nicole pulls it off with aplomb. I’m excited to see more from her.

AMIROK

Kenyan inspirations and design details dusted this clean line of fine gauge Italian knits and sportswear. While the entire line was in black and muted, the earthy, organic details invited you in. Minute white lake shells lining pockets and collars. Antelope horn buttons closing cardigans. It was all subtle and deftly done with a nod to these natural elements in a way that elevated these casual basics to an unprepossessed level of sophistication and chic.

TEDDY VONRANSON

The namesake designer took us on a Joshua Tree vision quest with a color palate of shimmering pastels in desert hues. When superimposed upon his fine tailored offerings, the mellowing effects of this muted color wheel were palpable; even when mixing and matching multiple patters as the designer is wont to do. Teddy’s influences from East and West coasts are on display as he puts forth a collection for the “new American man.”

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