Tailoring comes back in a big way for next fall, as the pendulum swings away from sloppy sweats or housedresses and towards a more polished, gender-free approach. Atelier Cillian debuts at NYFW with a dandified collection entitled “The Misdeeds of Dashwood,” inspired by the swanky British Hellfire Club of the 18th century. Lafayette 148 went sleek and chic in neutral or new pastels. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen of The Row showed off their color sense this season, layering lovely violet and bright orange under tailored camel separates. Australian designer Nicky Zimmermann brought her quirky touch to suiting with a bisque pink ensemble that featured pants that were cropped and generously flared.

Black and white is a timeless combination, but it gets new energy this fall from creative interpretations. Mike Amiri went casual with a printed sweatsuit, enlivened with scribbly ink drawings and checkerboards. The Row, ever sophisticated, used a deep brown and cream (rather than true black and white) for a graphic coat that ties at the waist. Beijing-born Snow Xue Gao softened the effect of a black-and-white plaid skirt by pairing it with a snug, floral-printed top. Ashlyn Park, a former patternmaker for Yohji Yamamoto, used her zero-waste philosophy for a fabric-blocked blazer. And Tanya Taylor brought an artistic yet romantic mood to the pen-and-ink palette with silhouetted black blossoms.

Tristan Detwiler of Stan was inspired by his grandfather this season, bringing a new elegance to his signature antique fabrics and upcycled quilts. There was a lace blazer made from an 18th-century Irish tablecloth, and a Navaho blanket was fashioned into toggle-closure jacket. Stan seems on a similar wavelength as Greg Lauren, a fellow West Coast-based designer who has long been exploring sustainability and upcycling. Lauren continued his collaboration with Gees Bend, the historic African American craft collective. Some of the pieces were tinted with vegetable dyes, their delicate tints coming from madder root and pomegranate peels.

All kinds of furry fabrics are key for next fall, part of the movement towards all things cozy. The deep pile materials work well for playful outerwear in natural-looking neutrals or vivid brights. Sarah Staudinger of Staud used bright turquoise for a curly faux fur topper, while Lafayette 148’s Emily Smith emphasized layering with a hairy sleeveless vest in a caramel brown. Zero Maria Cornejo cut a cozy periwinkle plush into one of her signature cocoon shapes. Tanya Taylor went glamourous with a voluminous yet featherweight cream-colored fur, and Ashlyn updated a simple lapeled coat with saturated color and a tactile brushed surface.

The newest neutrals are in the terracotta range, from washed clay bisque to deep, rich orange-browns. Nicholas Raefski brought a streetwear sensibility to an easy tailored suit, updated with undulating stripe motifs. Clara Son had an elevated activewear approach, with ensembles that mixed tailored pieces with sporty shapes that were dressed up with ruched details. Helmut Lang used the season’s curly pile for a cropped jacket and matching bag in a lush brick shade. A. Potts called his collection “Skinfolk”, using skin-inspired tones for his gender-free designs, while Maria Cornejo used a true terracotta for a monochrome look featuring artful layers.