Designer: Stuart Vevers

Coach marked its 85th anniversary with a Spring 2027 collection built around the archetypes that have anchored Stuart Vevers’s tenure: the trench, the leather jacket, the tuxedo, the and the Western boot. The Creative Director was explicit that this wasn’t a look back. “I didn’t want to make a retrospective,” he said in a statement, describing an approach that turned familiar Coach ideas inside out, exposed their construction and softened them. Tailoring holds slim, classical proportions, with clean shoulders, narrow sleeves and trousers that pool at the ankle. That inside-out logic runs through the outerwear, where overcoats, blazers and trench coats reveal their linings and internal structure, cut in subtly grained nappa with kisslock pockets borrowed from the house’s leather-goods hardware. Other trenches and jackets come in garment-dyed, sun-faded heavyweight jersey, giving traditional tailoring the hand of a worn-in hoodie. Accessories include the new Turnlock Tote, drawn from a 1970 design using the turnlock closure introduced by Coach’s first lead designer, Bonnie Cashin, alongside the Hudson sneaker in 1970s tennis proportions and a slouchy calf Western boot. Before the presentation, guests entered an expansive, dimly lit interior arranged with small tables, where they could read the collection notes in leather-wrapped folios designed to evoke bar menus and sip on sparkling wine or a Coach 85, a special anniversary cocktail made with Tanqueray gin.

Designer: Jack Carlson

J. Press looked across the Atlantic for Fall/Winter 26, showing Wednesday afternoon at Capitale on the Bowery as the 124-year-old label approaches its 125th anniversary. It’s the third runway outing since Jack Carlson took over as Creative Director a year ago, and for Fall he traced the English, Scottish and Irish influences that shaped American Ivy style. The link runs back to founder Jacobi Press, a Latvian immigrant who opened on the Yale campus in 1902 and, as Carlson tells it, built an idealized version of Oxford, Cambridge and the British country estate for an American customer. Carlson calls him “kind of the Ralph Lauren of his day.” That relationship is still literal: Shetland-made Shaggy Dogs, English neckwear and outerwear, Irish Arans, Scottish cashmeres and Harris Tweeds, plus Cheviots and flannels woven for J. Press by Fox Brothers and Marling & Evans. FW 26 extends it through collaborations with Barbour, Gloverall and Lavenham and a Made-in-Japan capsule. The bigger move is outward: the collection brings back a women’s capsule for the first time in the U.S. since the 1960s, with contemporary layers from Alex Mill and Steven Stolman. Carlson sees Ivy resurfacing across runways and, rather than follow it, is positioning J. Press as its source.